![]() ![]() “It’s just a different way of experiencing it. “I don’t think that having fun means that you’re not learning about what you’re drinking,” says Holland. It’s meant to be shared with friends on an endless night out, enhanced by the effervescent energy of its surroundings. Great wine, after all, is hardly meant to be confined to white-tablecloth restaurants or viticulture courses. Holland compared parties like this one to her experience interning in Napa Valley, where workers would throw on dance music, open some wine and blow off steam during harvest season. HONG KONG All students of fashion know how the 20th century transformed women’s clothing in the West. Holland, along with her partners Jen Abbott and Tara Hammond, make up the New York arm of Black Lamb Wine, which supplies wines to both Mansions and Bêvèrãgęš. “After all,” Schermerhorn says, “what would you rather drink two pills deep than a super fruity pét-nat rosé?”Ībout three hours into the party at Mansions, I’m drinking the most delicious Georgian rosé I’ve ever had (possibly enhanced by Lisa Stansfield seducing me in the background) while chatting with Lila Holland, the wine’s distributor. With the rise of bars and parties like Mansions and Bêvèrãgęš, it’s clear that America’s club kids might be ready to consider what exists beyond the well drink, too. He took more recent inspiration from Nazas, a wine party in Mexico City, while Nass cites Berlin’s Bar Sway, helmed by international DJ Jamie Tiller, as another guiding light. “We didn’t invent wine and music going together I think that was the Georgians,” he says, referencing the republic of Georgia, one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions. When asked about the inspiration for Bêvèrãgęš, Hank O’Donnell acknowledges that the concept of a wine-fueled dance party isn’t exactly novel. “I think the community is tired of cheap beer and cocktails,” says Sean Schermerhorn, the general manager of Mansions, a new “natural wine bar and club” from restaurateurs Jason Scott (Spaghetti Tavern) and Eddy Buckingham (Chinese Tuxedo) that might be the only spot in New York to pair trance music with old-vine moscatel. Together with several bars across the U.S., Mexico and Berlin, they’re part of a movement to introduce wine to club kids-on their turf. Welcome to Bêvèrãgęš, a quasi-monthly “wine party with music” hosted by a group of DJs and restaurant veterans. Downtempo beats ushered attendees to the dance floor while a middle-aged Georgian winemaker looked on from a table nearby, equally befuddled and amused. Down the block, purveyors of natural wine were showing their freshest wares at the annual RAW Wine Festival, but almost everyone agreed that the best pours-and vibes-were at this unassuming corner lot, tucked behind a Western Beef supermarket. on a brisk Sunday evening in Ridgewood, Queens, a man circled the backyard of the nightclub Mansions, doling out psychedelic mushrooms from a wine glass holder draped around his neck.
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